Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,
Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast.
If there is a heaven on earth, it’s here, it’s here…
Kashmiriyat with its welcoming embrace and Kashmir with pristine beauty continue to resonate Amir Khusro’s sentiments.
Last stop of our Kashmir trip was Gulmarg, teeth chattering cold and a snow blizzard is how Gulmarg welcomed us. Before we witnessed the beauty of this land, we were a bit disheartened by the commercialization that was rampant. Because of the heavy snow, our traveller had to be ditched and a smaller vehicle was hired. But the entire process of deboarding the passengers, bombarding them with utilities that they don’t need and bundling them again in compact cars was disappointing. The only time in the entire trip that I felt the locals were succumbing to the pressure of tourism. Most of the tourists travelling to Kashmir in winters will come prepared, creating chaos and fear was uncalled-for. “But five bad minutes don’t need to be milked for an entire day”
Gulmarg made me breathless the moment I stepped out into the snow land. Absolutely stunning, a blanket of snow had covered the Pir Pinjal range from end to end.
Buried under a minimum of 10 feet of snow, Gulmarg had all my snow wishes granted, the tiny, innocuous-looking snowflake in numbers has in it to shut down an entire city.
Mornings and evenings in Gulmarg were freezing as the temperatures dipped to a minimum of -8-degree Celcius. Even with six layers of clothing, the cold was teeth chattering.
On our first day, we had planned for the Gondola ride but the weather conditions were extremely bad, we were hoping for the conditions to get better, but the Gondola works only from 10am-4pm. For two days Gulmarg witnessed heavy snowfall and snow blizzards, we couldn’t manage to take the rides in either of the days. Gulmarg’s Gondola rides are the worlds highest operating cable cars.
I have learned not to regret missed opportunities and unnecessary stress over things I can’t control. While Gondola was missed, we made sure to make the best of the conditions nonetheless. Sking, sledging and snow biking could still be managed.
Even though I didn’t like someone pulling my weight while I was seated on a not so comfortable wooden plank, I did end up paying for the sledging. Tourism makes the major source of livelihood in Kashmir, be it sledging, skiing, snow biking, sight-seeing the tour guides make money from that, from the activities and from the gear they rent out to the tourists. The rates quoted by the operators would be on the higher side, you can bargain to make it easy on the pocket. We paid Rupee 2500 for both sledging and skiing.
Made some fluffy friends too
Skiing is not easy, especially if you are an amateur but it was definitely fun.
Line of amateur skiers
Our guide
Almost buried in snow, we tried our luck at snow biking to the Gondola point.
The price quoted was Rupee 5000 per head but we bargained and paid Rupees 2500 per head, which was still on the higher side. But the events on 14th February had led to approximately 70 per cent cancellation in tourists booking, so the rates had gone up for most of the activities.
One snow blizzard had already hit us while we were skiing, and looking up the hill at the route the snowmobiles would take, I was having second thoughts on the questionable decision of biking up into the storm’s eye.
Our bike riders had a cumulative experience of more than 25 years, only way making up the hills was putting our faith in the riders. Rider of the snowmobile I was on had been driving those beasts for the last 17 years, which was assuring.
Barely minutes into the ride, a second snow blizzard hit us, a point came where the experience of years was halted by the power of the blizzard. Teetering and grasping at our bikes and each other we waited out the storm. Minutes seemed like hours and the storm cleared, leaving us like frozen fishes. I had contemplated going back down for a few seconds, but either way, the weather condition was the same.
One shop at the top was serving hot tea and Maggi noodles, the surprise of finding someone in those conditions was mutual. Tandoor’s heat and hot tea slowly brought our extremities, skin, organs back to a humanly bearable temperature. Sharing our experiences of Kashmir over tea with young men who had never gone out of the valley, of life outside the insurgency, and Kashmiriyat was gratifying.
Snow blizzard passed, leaving inches of fresh snow over the trail. Snow is a tricky landscape, you never know how deep it goes and whether there’s a crevasse or fracture underneath it. This is where the experience of living off the land plays its part. All the riders with us had been manoeuvring through the landscape for years. Even with fresh snow levelling the trail they knew where to walk on and ride through.
The last few meters, amateurs were able to ride the snow cutting beasts
Undoubtedly it was the best experience of our Kashmir voyage
Made it out – Alive
Walk back to the hotel
I was extremely tempted to ask for a ride back
Indeed a long day
Not far
A hot water bath awaits
Headed home…
Kashmir – you had been very kind to us. Spring is when I shall return to witness the dance of colours in the valley.
The entire trip cost us approximately 40000 per head, which included our flight tickets, accommodations, food, winter sports and shopping too. All the arrangements were made by VtravelZ. All the accommodations(Srinagar, Pahalgam, and Gulmarg) had complimentary breakfast and dinner. Imran who manages VtravelZ is an exceptionally good host, who took care of all our insecurities and needs. I will always be enamoured by Kashmir’s hospitality and the traditions of Kashmiriyat, glisten of Lidder, flavours of Kahwa, pashminas and the kesar. The stunningly visual landscape of Kashmir is unlike that I have ever witnessed, and for this experience, I would always be grateful.
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