Camping in Jebel Shams, Oman

I have been in Muscat, Oman for nearly 9 months now, still, a newbie here who only moved a mile for months just to buy groceries and essential stuff. Last month the lockdown was lifted and an opportunity to go camping in Jebel Shams presented itself, which I grabbed by all limbs.

At about 3000m above sea level, Jebel Shams is the highest mountain in Oman. The rugged and rough mountain range overlooks the town of Al Hamra. Jebel Shams or Jabal Shams means “Sun Mountain” in Arabic and is also famous as the “The Grand Canyon” of Oman. Once you cross the town of Al Hamra the roads become quite rocky and steep making a 4WD vehicle essential.

Unlike the mountains of India, Northern Oman ranges are rough, barren with hardly any vegetation cover. Annual rainfall in the northern range is approximately 350mm that sustains only shrubs. Part of the Al Hajar range, jebel shams stands tall as a mountainous wall that has spectacular deep canyons and cliffs.

Growing up in northern India, in Dehradun, the Mountains for me have always been synonymous with forests, floating clouds, walking through dense vegetation, blissful monsoons, winters, and a soothing sun. Unlike the mountains I have grown up traveling in, the ranges in Oman are dry, rugged, and harsh with thorny shrubs that have adapted to the extremes of heat and arid climate.

But that doesn’t mean they don’t have their own charm – the ash-colored endless stretch of land with blurred mountain ranges, mirages, sunlit sand dunes has a haunting wilderness.

Jebel shams range is nearly a 3hour drive from Muscat, so if you are planning to camp there for the night, I would highly recommend reaching before sunset. Once the sun goes down, setting up tents and other night arrangements becomes difficult and the winds on the mountains won’t be kind.

We found a spot overlooking the canyon to camp for the night. While we were setting up 4 tents on the edge of the canyon, our neglected tent went for a glide over the valley leaving us stranded and under the mercy of open sky and a few insects. But the disappointment and some honest prayers changed the course of the winds, bringing back our lost soldier who lived to fight for the night.

The temperature in the night dips by a few degrees in the mountains, Its usually 10-15 degrees cooler than Muscat, so do carry a warmer or a jacket. The surface on jebel shams is extremely jagged and rough, do carry a thick blanket or a mattress along with your tents for a comfortable night under the stars.

The sky lights up with numerous stars if you are lucky you might even spot the Milky Way, not very clear though because of the light pollution.

Jebel shams is an escape from the city and comfort, a night under the stars in cold winds.

There are no winters in Oman, but a night upon the mountains in the open did give me a slight shiver and made me realize how much I miss my breath dancing in the freezing cold north Indian winters.

The light was brighter
When friends surrounded
The nights of wonder – Pink Floyd

Things to keep in mind
Drive a 4WD, a small car will manage to scramble but the roads are steep and rough. Be kind to your small car, and take a 4*4
Carry a warmer or a jacket, temperature is going to dip as the sun goes down.
Do not forget to carry a thick blanket to sleep on as the surface is riddled with pointed rocks and gravel.

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